This Anti-Ageing Essential Does It All, Says Dr. Dennis Gross
May 22 | 4 minute read
Words by Christie Sinclair
Before he became one of the world’s most sought after dermatologists, Dr. Dennis Gross was a skin cancer researcher. Although he loved being in the lab, looking at how the skin behaves on a cellular level, he enjoyed working face-to-face with patients even more.
“Working with patients and seeing skin as an external organ, being able to understand by just simply looking at it… and then being able to see how using different products and different treatments in the professional setting in the practice really was something that I love doing because it's not abstract.”
So he decided to combine both passions – clinical-grade science and dermatology – to create his own line of high-performance skincare.
“Peels are so popular because they firm the skin beautifully, especially because of the two steps” he says. Gross is referring to his Alpha Beta® Universal Daily peel pads, a simple two-step process designed to replicate the results his clients enjoy in his New York clinic.
The gamechanging formula is delivered via a gentle yet effective active-soaked pad, swiped over the face onto clean, dry skin. Step one delivers a dose of exfoliating AHAs and BHAs for pore-refining radiance; a trio of glycolic, lactic and malic acids melt away surface grime and build-up for even, glowing skin. Step two is a soothing neutraliser featuring calming chamomile, leaving skin feeling soft and supple.
‘Collagen’ is the key word here. Gross’ approach to anti-ageing goes beyond tackling fine lines and wrinkles. Instead, many of the bestsellers in his range zero in on collagen loss, the key culprit behind visible ageing of the skin in the first place.
“Collagen is the holy grail of density and thickness of the skin which we need because we lose collagen as we age,” he says. “There's lots of research studies that show vitamin C builds collagen, retinol builds collagen and alpha hydroxy acids build collagen. So as long as you're using something that builds collagen.”
That his products are designed to help replenish and protect the skin’s collagen, tackling the root cause of sagging, dullness and loss of elasticity, is a key differentiator for the brand. It’s a comprehensive philosophy - treat the underlying structural changes, and the youthful glow will follow.
But it’s also a personal one, he says. “Ageing can be texture, fine lines, wrinkles, sagging, jowls, hyperpigmentation, sunspots, melasma, sensitivities. It is a different thing for different people, everyone has to have their own goal.”
“After you’ve firmed the skin [he notes that the best way to do this, no matter your skin type, is with the Alpha Beta® Universal Daily peel pads] you should ask yourself: what are the top two things you want to improve?” Then, look for formulas that address those specific concerns.
If hyperpigmentation is your main problem: “I love the vitamin C serum for that.” His is formulated with lactic acid to help facilitate the absorption of the vitamin C. [Read more: Everything You Need To Know About Pigmentation – And How to Treat It]
You can’t go wrong with retinol for firming results, explains Gross, as long as you understand that not all retinols are created equally. “We have combined retinol with rambutan and ferulic acid to make it more suitable for sensitive skin.” Use the Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment if you’re looking to address fine lines and wrinkles, or the Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum for smoothing texture.
Gross explains that as a dermatologist, there's an expectation his patients have. “They go to a doctor, they expect to get better and I took that standard and that expectation in the creation of products.” “I have the ability to take things a step further and create multiple ingredients or delivery systems or targeted treatments or certain doses. And knowing what I know both as a scientist and as a clinical dermatologist to get results and I just had that expectation of myself and that is our mantra, results.
