The Science of Even Skin with Dr Dennis Gross

About this course:

Dr Dennis Gross is a name synonymous with skincare – and at MECCAversity, we learn from the very best! With more than 25 years of experience as a practising dermatological surgeon and leader in skin research and product development, Dr Gross is bringing his iconic Manhattan clinic to us by sharing everything there is to know about hyperpigmentation.

Your short notes on hyperpigmentation:

“The bottom line about pigmentation is it always occurs due to the excess production of… melanin,” explains Dr Dennis Gross. According to Dr Gross, it all starts on a cellular level – when the production of melanin (a pigment designed to protect our skin from UV damage) goes awry, causing our melanocytes (he cells responsible for producing melanin) to produce melanin in an irregular way. The result? Hyperpigmentation.

What can cause hyperpigmentation?

According to Dr Gross, extra pigmentation is caused by several factors. Most commonly are the big three: too much sun, hormone changes or inflammation. Here’s how to spot this in action:

• Sunspots: dark spots caused by the sun. “A sign of excess sun,” explains Dr Gross. This is when our melanocytes are activated by sun exposure.
• Melasma: large patches of pigment across the forehead, cheek and upper lip. “A relationship between hormones and sun, our melanocytes are activated by hormonal increases in progesterone and hyperpigmentation,” says Dr Gross.
• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: darker spots where previous redness or scarring occurred. “In the aftermath, skin produces pigmentation where the inflammation occurred,” notes Dr Gross.

How can we manage the appearance of hyperpigmentation?

According to Dr Gross there are four ways to address hyperpigmentation – and the best way is to combine them!

1. Wear SPF. “If you see hyperpigmentation…sunscreen is essential.”
2. Get rid of the old hyperpigmentation by adding a chemical exfoliant like glycolic or lactic acid. “It keeps that cell turnover going…that turnover helps with the disintegration and eventual removal of excess pigment.”
3. Stop new pigmentation from forming by using vitamin C. “[Vitamin C is] the big gun to stop the overproduction of hyperpigmentation.”
4. Reduce inflammation. “Soothing the skin is important to avoid post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

What your learning journey looks like:

This masterclass is part of our Advanced Skin collection. Want to learn more from the best in beauty? Once you’ve completed this lesson, check out our other masterclasses like A Dermatologist’s Guide to Sunscreen and Supporting your skin as you age.