The New Frontier in Skin Ageing – Improving Longevity
May 15 | 5 minute read
Words by Christie Sinclair
A tiny freckle? A smile line? Crow's feet? Fix it! Smooth it! Freeze it! And quickly! The longer it’s there, the harder it is to eradicate.
‘Ageing gracefully’ seems an antiquated concept when you think of the lengths we’re willing to go to for a face that resembles what it looked like when we emerged from the womb. But allowing nature to take its course, then doing something about it later – ‘anti-ageing’, in other words – is on the out, according to Dr David Luu, a paediatric cardiac surgeon, longevity tech entrepreneur and Global Chief Longevity Advisor for L'Oréal.
“I think anti-ageing was a stigma,” says Dr Luu. “We tried to fix what we saw, and that was something no-one was really excited about. The difference is that I think longevity is now an aspiration. It's a mindset. You want to work from within. You want to live a longer, healthier life for obviously a long period of time. And it's not about fixing, it's about preventing.”
The longevity approach, she adds, is about empowering people to take a more active role in prevention – “We have the science and technology, after all.”
Lancôme certainly does. Mitopure® is a 98.5% pure and micronised form of urolithin-A – a molecule the body naturally produces in the gut, known to prolong skin longevity by supporting collagen structure at the level of mitochondria – and the hero ingredient of the brand’s first proactive longevity skincare collection, Absolue Longevity MD.
“This is the first formulation that is using Mitopure® topically, ever,” explains Dr Moon, adding, “So it's a really big deal.”
To explain exactly how it works, we asked longevity physician and regenerative medicine pioneer, Dr Amy Killen: “As you get older, mitochondria release a lot of radicals that can be damaging to your skin cells or your cells in your entire body. So, when you help to repair or recycle those mitochondria, which is what your urolithin-A is doing, you're both helping your cells to make energy and kind of protecting the cells as well.”
The Absolue Longevity MD collection includes three different ranges, each consisting of a two-step cream and serum system designed to alter the skin’s visible age – according to your actual biological age. There’s the Anticipate collection for those up to 35 years of age, Intercept for those between 35 – 55 and Reset for those aged 55 years and above.
It’s that approach of respecting skin’s natural evolution over time, and supporting its function, that is so revolutionary.
“It feels as though the skin itself is finally being heard,” says Emma Lewisham, whose namesake skincare line has garnered a devoted following with formulations that focus on helping the skin to function at its best for longer. “People are beginning to see the results of working against the skin rather than with it, and the recognition is growing that you simply can’t fight physiology,” Lewisham explains.
But it’s more than simply moving away from a ‘react-and-fix’ approach: “To me, skin longevity is about becoming a true advocate for the skin – placing its needs ahead of our own agenda,” she says.
What that requires is patience, a reframing of expectations, and a tightly curated routine, delivered diligently: “There can be a temptation to do more, be more aggressive, or accumulate an overflowing drawer of products. But overindulging in actives can trigger a ‘dermal domino’ – a short-term gain achieved at the expense of other aspects of the skin,” Lewisham explains.
Exosomes are another exciting development in longevity-focused skincare.
“Exosomes are cell-derived vesicles that act as biological messengers,” says Lars Fredriksson, founder and CEO of VERSO Skincare, explaining, “In skincare, they are used to support communication between skin cells, essentially helping the skin function in a more optimal way.”
Rather than overnight transformation, exosomes work by helping skin to do what it already knows how to do – just a lot more efficiently. Over time, it encourages skin to act younger, producing more collagen and elastin, and strengthening the barrier to prevent damage and moisture loss.
According to Dr Luu, these ingredients are just one part of the broader longevity skincare approach. “What is interesting is skin is no different than any other organs. It’s fed by your lifestyle. The way you eat, the way you function, the way you sleep, it affects your skin right away.” Oh, and don’t forget your SPF!
