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Base Camp: An Expert MUA Answers Your Foundation Questions

June 22 | 3 minute read

Words by Christie Sinclair

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You know what they say: a solid foundation is the key to success. That applies to your makeup bag, too!

The right base product really can make or break your whole look. But mastering a smooth, your-skin-but-better finish does require some prior knowledge – or an expert on hand to share their secrets.

We tapped our resident pro-MUA, MECCA’s Makeup Education Lead Sally, to answer the most common questions we sourced from you on Instagram. From the best foundations for dry skin to tricks that will help your foundation stay exactly where you put it, let’s get back to base-ics!

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How can I get a good amount of coverage without my foundation looking cakey?

It’s the eternal question! According to Sally, achieving full coverage without looking too ‘done’ all comes down to the formula – which today (thankfully!) is nothing like the thick, gluggy option you might remember from high school. “There are so many fuller coverage foundations that have really flexible, skin-like finishes these days – like NARS Natural Matte Longwear Foundation, Yves Saint Laurent All Hours Foundation [and] Estée Lauder Double Wear,” she explains. But application technique is also crucial: “The more pigment in a foundation, the less you should apply – and make sure it is thinnest around areas of movement: the mouth, nose and eye area, in particular,” says Sally, adding, “These areas don’t need that much coverage and often are the areas that make the whole look ‘cakey’ first.”

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What are your tips for covering breakouts or pimples?

We all get them – but the trick to camouflaging breakouts isn’t adding more foundation. Instead, Sally prefers spot concealing: “I even the skin out with as sheer a foundation as possible but then I go hard on coverage on any blemishes with a concealer,” she explains. A good concealer should do most of the heavy lifting for blemishes, not your foundation. But before you start, “Look at the colour of the blemish and try to colour-correct it with your concealer choice. If it's scarred and a bit purplish, use a peachier tone; otherwise, a more golden/yellow works to cut out red.

“Use a tiny brush and place the concealer right on the blemish itself, then set that area with a matte powder to stop light bouncing off it and making it look more obvious," advises Sally. “If you need extra coverage, alternate layers of concealer with layers of powder for a ‘sandwich’ method that will ensure it stays all day.”

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How can I adapt my foundation for the changing seasons and weather?

Wait, we should be changing our complexion products throughout the year? If this is news to you, and you also suddenly find your foundation isn’t sitting the way you like it, the season could be the reason! If your skin tends to be drier in winter and you’re spending more time inside with the heating on, "You might find you can handle a more hydrating [foundation] formula, when in summer that same formula might make you look too shiny,” shares Sally. “I tend to stick to the same amount of coverage however – the dimmed, overcast light in winter really shows product on the skin, so skin tints and lighter formulas are still ideal.”

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I have oily skin – is there anything I can do to stop my foundation from separating around my chin and nose?

A foundation can really only do so much; it really comes down to the combination of your foundation, a primer and a strategic dusting of powder, explains Sally. “For primer, anything mattifying will help to absorb excess oils, and a good setting powder buffed into that area (rather than lightly dusted) will sandwich it all together to give you longer wear,” she says. “Still, try to keep your foundation as thin as possible. The more product you apply, the more you have to set it and maintain it during the day when it heats up with the warmth of your skin!”

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What are your tips for foundation that lasts throughout the day?

We all expect our foundation to last the day (or at least until lunchtime) – and you’d think more is more, but the trick is to “apply as little product as possible; it will always wear better,” says Sally. She also likes to powder the T-zone and make sure the skin underneath is hydrated enough before applying makeup over it.

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What kinds of foundations would you recommend for dry skin?

“For dry skin, balmy foundations are beautiful or any that have emollient ingredients: RMS Beauty SunCoverup Super Tint SPF 50, Victoria Beckham Beauty The Foundation Drops with TFC8®, NARS Light Reflecting Foundation. You want light reflection and hydration to keep your skin looking plump all day,” says Sally.