Spot the Difference! How to Deal With Breakouts, According to the Experts
July 23 | 6 minute read
Words by Madeleine Boles de Boer
Even the most diligent followers of multi-step skincare routines can be prone to a spot or two (or 10) – and they can pop up at any age. Stress, hormones, environment, lifestyle, diet, medications and even the seasons all play a role in how our skin behaves. So, when you sleep in your makeup, your stress levels increase or your cycle changes, it can show up on your face.
The good news is that breakouts tend to follow the same pattern, meaning there's an opportunity to intervene at every stage. From feeling that first bump brewing beneath the surface, to managing an active blemish and dealing with the aftermath, the breakout cycle is one most of us know all too well.
Rather than squeezing another spot in the mirror (satisfying, but not worth it) and hoping this time will be different (it won't!), we asked the experts for their on-the-spot advice.
Stage One: Prevention
As expected, it's not a singular, wonder product that will forever rid your skin of blemishes after one application – instead, Lewisham suggests a holistic approach to achieving a clear complexion, long-term.
"Healthy-looking, radiant skin is a 360-degree effort, so I always go back to basics,” she explains. “Prioritising a balanced diet, staying hydrated, supporting gut health, getting quality sleep, managing stress, and even simple practices like changing your pillowcase regularly can all support the skin."
Meanwhile, US board-certified dermatologist and brand founder Dr Dennis Gross reveals that breakouts take time to appear on the skin’s surface – sometimes up to two weeks – so "you have to treat the skin you can't see yet." The takeaway: consistency is key. The routine you stick to today is helping to prevent tomorrow's (and next week’s) breakouts.
Set yourself up for success with a solid routine: remove the day with a cleanser suited to your skin type and invest in a silk pillowcase and a cute water bottle to put some motivation into your hydration.
Stage Two: Active Breakouts
Lewisham knows that the impact of a breakout may be more than skin-deep. "Breakouts can be deeply emotional, and it’s easy to feel like you need to do everything possible to eliminate them quickly," she says. But the founder stresses the importance of avoiding aggressive products that further disrupt the skin.
Instead, she advises focusing on the skin's microbiome and barrier function. While most of us are likely familiar with the latter, the former can be more elusive; essentially, your skin is home to trillions of bacteria that impact how it feels and functions. Supporting this microbiome with beneficial bacteria helps crowd out breakout-causing bacteria, restoring balance and preventing future pimples. That's the thinking behind Lewisham's Supernatural Blemish Serum, a breakthrough emulsion that delivers live probiotics directly to the skin.
Dr Gross also recommends against going on the offense – even though it may feel like the right choice: "Patients try to attack acne by stripping every drop of oil with harsh scrubs, but it actually backfires by injuring the moisture barrier and triggering more breakouts," he explains. Instead, he suggests products that combine targeted actives with nourishing formulations, like his Alpha Beta AHA/BHA Daily Cleansing Gel. With a blend of glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids, it deeply exfoliates and helps clear clogged pores, while being gentle enough to use every day.
Even when a breakout feels like the end of the world, life doesn't stop – and it's tempting to reach for heavier concealers and foundations to give you extra coverage. However, Rosalba Martone, Director of Education at clinic-backed skincare and makeup brand Perricone MD, recommends choosing formulas that are lightweight and buildable – without pore-clogging ingredients.
Martone advises turning to skincare-infused products and applying them with freshly cleaned synthetic brushes. Her one BIG no-no? "Avoid using sponges at all costs, unless you are using a new sponge every application."
And if you're looking for a coverage option sans makeup? Starface has just the sticker. Infused with skin-loving ingredients like salicylic acid, the brand's hydrocolloid patches work hard to shrink each spot and reduce visible redness – while amping up the cute factor with fun colours and designs.
Step Three: Recovery
Long-term, she recommends LED light therapy, whether that's with an at-home mask or an in-clinic treatment: "Blue light will kill the bacteria and help balance oil production, while red light therapy helps calm inflammation while reducing redness and swelling associated with acne," she explains.
