So it's not surprising that his latest venture, Cultured, is breaking more new ground, this time in the realm of microbiome-focused skincare. When he stepped back from REN, Calcraft had no intention of launching another skincare brand, but after reading a book on the microbiome and bacteria, he became curious about emerging research into the gut biome, which led to an interest in the skin microbiome and exactly how it impacts skin's health, vitality and glow. Which then led to the birth of Cultured (and its very cool dotty packaging).
Here, Calcraft talks all things skincare and science with his trademark charm.
What is your very first memory of skincare?
“Through the hazy mists of time, I see my dad’s bar of Pears soap and my mum’s Imperial Leather. I then remember teenage zits, Oxy 10 [acne gel] and the pain of breakouts. Skincare was [UK pharmacy chain] Boots and problems or a posh beauty counter in a town 30 miles away – it felt as far as Mars!
“My ‘aha’ moment is one I remember clearly: I was 30-something, sitting in my bath by the window, sun streaming in, late afternoon. I reached over and stole my wife’s Clarins face wash and oh my God, suddenly I got it! The texture, fragrance, feel, ritual, effect – a new world opened. I had the same feeling with a bottle of Rioja, where one sip turned wine from a way of getting drunk to nature distilled in a glass.”
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What inspired you to bring Cultured into the world?
“It’s the microbiome, innit! After REN [Clean Skincare], I wasn’t thinking of ever putting on my metaphorical lab coat again. I thought my skincare days were over, so I’m still a little bit shocked to be the ageing parent of a brand ‘toddler’ once again! Why? Well, I have always been interested in health and science, and read I Contain Multitudes by Ed Yong. It was – and is – mind-blowing. It reconfigures our understanding of the world and ourselves by giving an insight into our newly discovered relationship with microbes and bacteria. The gut biome led to the skin microbiome.
“The discovery of the skin microbiome has changed forever what we know about skin and how it works. It’s a bona fide scientific revolution. It’s the biggest thing to ever happen to skincare. It’s huge, bigger than Powderfinger, even! This was what set us off on the Cultured journey. We wanted to channel this scientific revolution and bring the benefit of happier microbiomes and healthier skin to the world. Plus, my kids left home and told me I needed to get a life!”
How long did it take to get Cultured from conception to delivery, and what were your biggest challenges along the way?
What is the skin microbiome?
What does skin with a healthy microbiome look and feel like?
“Not to be trite, but skin with a healthy microbiome is likely to look damn healthy – clearer and better hydrated. My experience of Cultured is that, although this obviously differs person to person, it gives a different type of glow. Not the scrubbed, acid-peeled glow, but a best-your-skin-can-look type of glow. A happy, ‘in love’ glow!
“How does skin feel? Stronger, more resilient and confident – if skin can be confident, that is! My weird feeling is that skin feels like it ‘fits’ better, like wearing a brilliant jacket that makes you walk and behave differently. I think basically you feel more at one with your skin and that you’re in sync. Sorry, got a bit carried away there!”
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How can you tell if your microbiome or skin barrier is compromised?
What are Cultured’s hero ingredients and how do they work?
“The microbiome revolution has produced a new era of skincare actives and a new world of possibility in terms of effectiveness. They really are a gamechanger. These actives come from the world of biotechnology and are listed as prebiotics, postbiotics and ferments.
“The first is a prebiotic inulin active derived from chicory and agave. This safeguards the microbiome from destructive preservatives and helps the microbiome form a hydrating film that delivers faster, deeper and longer-lasting hydration than hyaluronic acid.
“And we have an active isolated from micro-algae. Its prebiotic action works to support balance in the microbiome, so skin appears clearer, calmer and less prone to sensitivity. All our actives are scientifically substantiated with clinical evidence of proof of claims.”
What is the difference between good bacteria and bad bacteria? Should we not be trying to eliminate all bacteria from the skin?
“There is not really such a thing as ‘good’ or ‘bad’ bacteria. Bacteria can be good and bad, depending on how dominant they are within the microbiome population. The important thing is balance.
“Regarding eliminating all bacteria from the skin – you’d wipe out your microbiome, disrupt the skin’s ecosystem, trash the skin barrier, leading to dry, flaky, cracked and potentially infected skin. Bacteria are key to skin health – be nice to them [laughs]!”
What is the difference between good bacteria and bad bacteria? Should we not be trying to eliminate all bacteria from the skin?
“There is not really such a thing as ‘good’ or ‘bad’ bacteria. Bacteria can be good and bad, depending on how dominant they are within the microbiome population. The important thing is balance.
“Regarding eliminating all bacteria from the skin – you’d wipe out your microbiome, disrupt the skin’s ecosystem, trash the skin barrier, leading to dry, flaky, cracked and potentially infected skin. Bacteria are key to skin health – be nice to them [laughs]!”