The New Frontier in Skin Ageing – Improving Longevity
March 26 | 5 minute read
Words by Christie Sinclair
Is it just me or do you also feel as though you’ve spent your whole life trying to undo everything that shows up on your face? A tiny freckle, the start of a smile line – I must fix it, smooth it, freeze it, and quickly! The longer it’s there, the harder it is to eradicate. Or so I’ve been told.
But recently it occurred to me that while I’ve been busy trying to fix everything once it’s already happened, I should have been doing the opposite. Consider SPF: it’s been part of my daily ritual since I was a toddler in a legionnaire hat. We all apply it religiously because we know what’s coming for us if we don’t, but it’s strange to think that approach isn’t applied to the rest of our skincare.
This idea of protecting your skin from future damage – instead of repairing that damage later – feels almost radical.
That same mentality is now shaping what comes next in the skincare world. Instead of overloading skin with aggressive actives or jumping straight to invasive (and costly) in-clinic fixes, we’re seeing a growing focus on helping skin function better, earlier – and for longer – so there’s less to ‘undo’ later.
The concept of ‘skin longevity’ involves supporting the skin so it continues to function at its best for longer – and this has always been the goal (and the outcome) of how Lewisham formulates, she tells us. But it’s more than simply moving away from a ‘react-and-fix’ approach: “To me, skin longevity is about becoming a true advocate for the skin – placing its needs ahead of our own agenda,” she explains.
According to Lewisham, a preventative approach to skin maintenance requires patience, a reframing of expectations, and a tightly curated routine, delivered consistently. “There can be a temptation to do more, be more aggressive, or accumulate an overflowing drawer of products. But overindulging in actives can trigger a ‘dermal domino’ – a short-term gain achieved at the expense of other aspects of the skin,” she says.
Skin longevity is a long game, after all.
Which brings us to one ingredient currently leading this shift: exosomes.
“Exosomes are cell-derived vesicles that act as biological messengers,” says Lars Fredriksson, founder and CEO of VERSO Skincare, explaining, “In skincare, they are used to support communication between skin cells, essentially helping the skin function in a more optimal way.”
So rather than overnight transformation, exosomes work by helping skin to do what it already knows how to do – just a lot more efficiently. Over time, it encourages skin to act younger, producing more collagen and elastin, and strengthening the barrier to prevent damage and moisture loss.
Exosomes have moved quickly from clinics into skincare, but as with every buzzy ingredient, not all are created equal, Fredriksson cautions: “Origin, purification process, stability and formulation compatibility are critical factors.” In clinical settings, exosomes are typically derived from donated human cells, which are then purified in the lab and delivered to the skin via injection. But what ends up in skincare is different. VERSO's Energising Eye Patches include a highly refined cosmetic-grade exosome technology from plant cells, developed specifically for topical application, rather than injection.
“In a routine, exosome-based products are typically used after cleansing and before moisturiser, similar to a serum step,” says Fredriksson, adding, “They combine well with vitamin A [retinoids], antioxidants and barrier-supporting ingredients, reinforcing a complete longevity-focused regimen.”
And speaking of those other ingredients: Emma Lewisham’s Supernatural Vitale Elixir (now available in a Ritual set), is powered by breakthrough peptides to deliver visible firming and plumping benefits. Meanwhile, REOME’s Active Recovery Broth leans on biomimetic actives – ingredients that behave like those already found in skin – to support skin cells, restoring that youthful, bouncy radiance.
According to Fredriksson, exosomes, peptides and the like are just one part of a broader movement towards preventative skincare. We're certainly not encouraging starting skincare (beyond SPF) earlier or recommending teenagers use a slew of actives they don’t need (and they really don’t). Instead, longevity skincare is about being more considered, diligent and consistent from your early twenties – or, if you ask Lewisham, thinking about “what skincare would your skin actually choose”, if it could.
