Pore Patrol: Everything You Need to Know About Salicylic Acid
July 23 | 4 minute read
Words by Christie Sinclair
What You Need to Know About Salicylic Acid
| What is salicylic acid? | A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) used in skincare to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores – in a swipe! |
| Benefits | Improving skin texture, controlling oil production, unclogging pores, reducing blackheads, preventing future breakouts. |
| Best for | Oily, combination and acne-prone skin but can be used by all skin types. |
| Use | 2 - 3 times per week, depending on your skin type. |
| Don’t forget | SPF! Salicylic acid can increase sun sensitivity. |
| Keep in mind | If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, it’s best to speak to your healthcare provider before starting salicylic acid. |
If your forehead doubles as a disco ball and breakouts always seem to pop up before a big event, no matter how religiously you stick to your skincare routine, don’t panic – the answer isn’t over-exfoliation! It could be salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid is a true skincare powerhouse, with the ability to dive deep into your pores to dissolve excess oil and buildup that leads to congestion, all without the need to physically scrub your skin.
While you might be reluctant to swipe an acid over your face, it’s actually one of the most effective ways to exfoliate and encourage soft, glowing skin. MECCA’s skincare expert Karina is here to share everything you need to know about adding salicylic acid to your skincare routine.
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid goes where no other skincare ingredient can. In skincare, this oil-soluble beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) is one of the most powerful chemical exfoliants, working beneath the skin’s surface to dissolve excess oil, loosen dead skin cells and clear debris and bacteria that can lead to congestion, blackheads and breakouts.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
There’s a reason you’ve spotted salicylic acid on the ingredient list of so many zit-zapping products, Karina tells us. “Because this breakout-busting ingredient works where breakouts begin – deep inside the pore. It helps keep excess oil, dead skin and bacteria from building up and causing congestion in the first place.” The payoff, if you’re committed, is an improvement in your skin’s texture and tone, smaller pores and (hopefully) fewer pesky spots. “And the benefits don’t stop there. Salicylic acid can also help calm the look of redness and reduce the inflammation that often comes hand-in-hand with breakouts,” explains Karina.
What skin types should use salicylic acid?
Do you have blackheads or whiteheads? Oily or shiny patches? Congestion or uneven skin tone? Breakouts or large pores? If you answered yes to any of these questions, excellent! Salicylic acid will help with all these things. While it’s generally thought to be suitable for most skin types, it’s best to take care if your skin is sensitive or dry – while exfoliating and removing oil is beneficial for clearer, smoother skin, it can also reduce your skin’s natural moisture barrier and lead to tightness, flaking and increased sensitivity (don’t worry, there are other gentle options for you, like lactic acid). If your skin is on the oily side, you may find salicylic acid works particularly well because you naturally produce more sebum.
Why choose salicylic acid over other skincare acids?
The fact that salicylic acid is oil-soluble, unlike most other exfoliating acids, is important. Our expert breaks it down: “Your skin naturally produces sebum, which is an oil. Since salicylic acid dissolves in oil, it mixes with sebum and travels into pores where excess sebum, dead skin and all sorts of debris can build up.” Instead of polishing the skin’s surface like AHAs, it is able to travel to where congestion begins. It’s why salicylic acid is so effective in treating and preventing future breakouts and acne.
How to use salicylic acid
“This all depends on your product,” explains Karina. “Because a salicylic acid cleanser is rinsed off, it can be a great introduction to the ingredient for many people. Depending on your skin and the formulation, you may even find it’s gentle enough to use daily!"
Leave-on products like toners and serums have a lot more time to get to work on the skin, so Karina recommends introducing them very slowly: “Start with one or two nights a week and only increase the frequency if your skin tolerates it.
Salicylic acid spot treatments and drying lotions are designed for skincare emergencies – pop them onto individual blemishes as they appear. You can even find moisturisers spiked with salicylic acid, which Karina says is the perfect way to start. “It combines exfoliation with added hydration, which acts like a buffer to protect your skin while it sweeps away all the things you don’t need.”
When to use salicylic acid
Like any new skincare ingredient, always start slowly. We know how hard this can be, but patience pays off! Using salicylic acid 1 - 2 times a week initially is enough to notice results, however it depends on a number of factors: how your skin reacts to the ingredient, the strength of your formula and also the product type. For instance, if you’re using a cleanser with salicylic acid, you may be able to use it more frequently because you’re rinsing it off, whereas you might only need to use a salicylic acid serum or spot treatment a few times a week. “There’s no one-size-fits-all approach. Start slowly, pay attention to how your skin responds and build up your usage over time if your skin is happy,” says Karina.
“My biggest tip? Let salicylic acid focus on the breakout, while pairing with ingredients like ceramides, glycerin and hyaluronic acid which focus on keeping your skin barrier healthy.” She adds: “The best results come from treating the concern without compromising overall skin health.”
“My biggest tip? Let salicylic acid focus on the breakout, while pairing with ingredients like ceramides, glycerin and hyaluronic acid which focus on keeping your skin barrier healthy.” She adds: “The best results come from treating the concern without compromising overall skin health.”
